Knitwear at the Office

Make Knitwear a Genuine Part of the Outfit

One of the most common mistakes is treating knitwear as a default choice, much like a simple white T-shirt. It is selected because it is comfortable or because the temperature is dropping, without much thought given to how it fits into the overall look. For Toddrick Metzger, a stylist at Surmesur Ottawa, knitwear can do much more. It becomes especially interesting when it creates a transition between the other elements of an outfit.

A burgundy knit, for example, can enrich a navy jacket while echoing a pair of grey or brown trousers. A cream knit can soften a charcoal suit, while a navy style creates an elegant sense of continuity with a more textured blue jacket. The colour does not need to be bold. Above all, it should contribute to the harmony of the outfit.

Choose the Neckline Based On Your Build and the Effect You Want

The neckline influences both the level of formality and the proportions of the silhouette. The crew neck remains the most versatile option. Simple and refined, it fits easily under a jacket and works in a wide range of professional settings.

A turtleneck draws more attention to the upper body. It gives an outfit greater presence and can help balance a slender build or a long, narrow neck. It works particularly well with a suit or jacket with clean lines, as the neckline already carries a certain amount of visual impact. A V-neck, on the other hand, opens up and visually lengthens the neck, making it a flattering choice for someone with a shorter neck or broader build. Worn on its own, it feels more relaxed. Layered over a shirt, it moves closer to traditional office attire.

There is no single right neckline. The choice depends on the setting, but also on the effect you want to create.

Match the Weight of the Knit to the Jacket

When knitwear is worn under a jacket, its thickness matters. A lightweight or midweight style fits easily under a versatile jacket, adding warmth without altering its line or creating unnecessary bulk. A heavier knit calls for a jacket made from a more substantial fabric. Flannel, tweed or textured wool will generally have enough weight and structure to hold its shape, while a very lightweight jacket may pull, bulge or lose its line over a knit that is too thick.

The same principle applies to trousers. A heavy knit paired with very lightweight trousers can make an outfit appear top-heavy. Trousers made from a denser wool, flannel or structured cotton help distribute the visual weight more evenly across the silhouette.

Toddrick sums up the relationship with one simple rule: “The heavier the knit, the more weight and structure the jacket worn over it needs to have.” The other pieces in the outfit also need enough presence to balance it.

Keep the Level of Formality Consistent

Knitwear is often described as a bridge between business and casual, but it cannot single-handedly bring together pieces that belong to completely different worlds. A highly formal jacket, athletic-looking trousers and a casual knit will not necessarily create a cohesive outfit simply because they are worn together.

It is best to keep the gap between levels of formality within reason. A fine-gauge knit pairs naturally with a relaxed suit or a separate jacket and wool trousers, while a more textured knit can be worn with a less formal jacket, cotton trousers or a clean-cut pair of dark jeans. The goal is not to follow a rigid formula, but to make sure every piece tells the same story.

Check the Fit Under a Jacket

A knit may appear to fit well on its own, then become uncomfortable as soon as a jacket is added. During a fitting, a few details deserve particular attention. The armholes should provide enough room to move without creating excess fabric, and the sleeves should not ride up or form excessive folds. The body of the knit should follow the silhouette without pulling, while the neckline should remain neatly in place. Once the jacket is on, its lapels should fall naturally and its shape should not be distorted by the thickness of the knit.

This balance is especially important with knitwear because it is more difficult to alter after production than a shirt or pair of trousers. Knitted seams and construction techniques require different equipment from those used for woven garments, so the right fit needs to be considered from the start.

Start With a Knit That Complements What You Already Own

When choosing a first knit for the office, your existing wardrobe is the best place to start. Which colours appear most often? Will the knit be worn mainly under a jacket, with dress trousers or with jeans? Does it need to work across several settings or complete one specific outfit?

A midweight style will generally offer the most versatility. Whether navy, grey, brown, cream or burgundy, the right colour is one that already works with several of your jackets and trousers. The neckline can then be selected based on your build and how you plan to wear it.

Custom becomes particularly relevant when ready-to-wear styles always seem to require the same compromise: the right length but sleeves that are too long; a comfortable fit through the shoulders but too much room through the body; the right knit but never in the colour you want. “The variety of styles, the choice of colours and the ability to adapt the fit are the three main advantages of custom knitwear,” Toddrick explains. Rather than choosing between fit, style, weight and colour, each element can be considered together.