A month has already passed since I attended the 107th edition of Pitti Uomo.
As with every winter edition, substantial fabrics and coats were in full display, showcased in a variety of styles. Both a gathering of menswear enthusiasts and a trade show, Pitti Uomo is the largest event of its kind.

My Outfit - Surmesur and Dormeuil

My Outfit - Surmesur and Dormeuil

Unsurprisingly, every Pitti Uomo attendee carefully plans their outfits, and I was no exception. For the first day of the fair, I opted for a Prince of Wales fabric from Dormeuil’s Krono Royal collection, designed for travel. Given the relatively mild temperatures in Italy, this medium-weight fabric was a wise choice.

The event is the perfect opportunity for personal expression and bolder sartorial choices. With this in mind, I commissioned a double-breasted suit with extremely wide (even dramatic) lapels and a pagoda shoulder. This highly stylized choice, mainly associated with the Parisian tailor Cifonelli—whose name is sometimes used to describe that shoulder style—features a hollow between the collar and the shoulder, along with substantial padding (known as “roping”). The effect is undeniable: the shoulders appear broader, the waist slimmer, and the horizontal lines of the pattern further amplify this visual impact.

For the trousers, I went with a natural waist, a double waistband, side adjusters, cuffs, and double pleats—a very Italian style, well-suited to the occasion. The drape is flattering, but most importantly, the comfort is exceptional.

Pitti Uomo - The Event

Pitti Uomo is an international event held in Florence, Italy, twice a year. It gathers hundreds of brands and attracts over twenty thousand menswear enthusiasts during its four-day run.

Beyond the trade fair, it’s an opportunity for me to reconnect with fellow style enthusiasts from around the world. It’s also the ideal place to discover style trends, observe the evolution of craftsmanship, and be inspired by everyone’s unique sartorial expressions. While the event takes place at the fortress (Fortezza da Basso), Pitti Uomo also transforms the streets of Florence’s historic center into an open-air menswear magazine.

When the fortress doors close at around 6 PM, the event is far from over… That’s when the evening festivities begin. If there’s one place where wearing a tuxedo every night feels completely natural, it’s here. Countless elegant events take place throughout the city, always maintaining an air of classic sophistication.

My Experience at Pitti Uomo

Now attending my third edition, my typical day begins with an espresso (how could it be otherwise in Italy?) as I make my way to the fortress. This walk through the medieval city is something I particularly appreciate, as art is seamlessly woven into its streets. It’s also a moment of calm before the “chaos” of the fair.

Having met up with friends from various places, I walk toward the fortress entrance, where photographers gather, trying to capture the day’s most striking outfits. Once inside, I join another group of suit aficionados along the famous Pitti Uomo wall (with its dull metallic gold tone), which appears in countless fashion magazine photos. It’s the perfect moment to catch up with people I stay in touch with through social media but only see in person once a year.

The morning passes quickly, and soon it’s time to enjoy Florence’s restaurants. Since we are all regulars, each of us knows a few great spots—not that it takes much effort, as it’s quite difficult to find a bad restaurant here. Tuscany, the region Florence belongs to, is renowned for its ragu, prosciutto, and bistecca fiorentina. After the meal and another espresso, we return to the fortress, this time to explore its interior. I take the opportunity to reconnect with artisans and brand representatives—an opportunity that would otherwise be impossible.

By late afternoon, I head back to my hotel room to change into evening attire, usually a tuxedo or accessories more suited for the cocktail parties I’ll be attending. Walking from one event to another, I admire how the medieval city transforms at night, with its lighting highlighting statues, cathedrals, and other works of art along my path. After attending two or three events, I join a group of friends for dinner before the restaurants close, usually around 10 PM.

This sums up a typical day at Pitti Uomo, which is usually repeated three or four times, depending on how long I stay in town. And now you know why we return every year—sometimes even twice!

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