Custom Winter Coat

How to choose yours?

Antonio - Quebec

We take the time to choose a suit, refine its fit and consider every detail. Then the cold arrives, and a coat covers much of that outfit. Why not give it the same attention?

For Mateo Santarini, a stylist at Surmesur’s Montreal showroom, a made-to-measure coat extends the care put into the rest of your wardrobe. Its cut, fabric and proportions are chosen to suit your build, but also what you wear underneath and how you spend the colder months.

Which winter coat suits your daily routine?

Which winter coat suits your daily routine?

Before choosing a colour or style, consider how you will use your coat. Do you mostly make short trips between home, the car and the office? Take public transit? Wear a suit every day, or alternate between knitwear and more casual outfits? These habits help guide your choice of fabric, length and structure.

A relatively short, less bulky coat can be comfortable for driving or moving between the cold outdoors and the warmth of the subway, while a longer coat in a heavier fabric serves different needs. Mateo distinguishes between a transitional coat, practical for everyday commuting, and a style designed for colder weather. The goal is to find a smart coat that suits how you actually use it: getting to the office and spending several hours outdoors call for different things.

Fit and length: consider what you wear underneath

Fit and length: consider what you wear underneath

One of the main advantages of made-to-measure lies in the shoulders. When worn over a jacket, a coat needs enough room to maintain a clean line and allow comfortable movement. Mateo therefore adapts its construction to the clothing it will be worn with. A coat intended to go over a suit requires particular attention to shoulder structure and room, while one worn mainly with knitwear can have a softer shoulder and a closer fit.

Length also needs to be considered in relation to your overall silhouette. A short, long or double-breasted coat will look different from one person to the next, and the stylist’s role is to find proportions that flatter each client while respecting their preferences. To prepare for your appointment, think about the clothes you will wear most often under your coat. Inspiration photos can also help clarify what you have in mind: a collar shape, a length or an overall look can all be useful starting points.

Which fabric should you choose for a winter coat?

Which fabric should you choose for a winter coat?

For Mateo, choosing a fabric always comes down to balancing warmth, weight, texture and care. He particularly appreciates thick, structured wool fabrics for their shape and durability, while cashmere appeals for its softness and lightness but requires more delicate care. Fabric composition therefore matters just as much as appearance when making your choice.

A lighter fabric can work well for a transitional coat, while a denser wool is better suited to one intended for colder weather. The warmth you need also depends on what you wear underneath and how much time you spend outdoors.

My instinct is to create a piece that’s very versatile.

Mateo
 - 
Montréal

Your first made-to-measure coat: focus on versatility

Your first made-to-measure coat: focus on versatility

Made-to-measure opens up a wide range of possibilities. For a first coat, however, Mateo recommends starting with a piece that will fit easily into your wardrobe.

Navy, charcoal and black are among the classic colours he sees most often, while a dark brown or subtle herringbone can add personality without making a coat difficult to pair. The right question to ask is: what is missing from your current wardrobe? A coat to wear over your suits, a dressier piece for evenings out, or a style that works equally well with a jacket or knitwear? Thinking this through helps create a garment you will want to wear regularly, season after season.

Details to personalize

Details to personalize

Once that foundation is in place, the details give the coat its character. A single- or double-breasted front, length, collar shape, lapel width and pocket placement all contribute to the finished look. Some choices are practical, too. Mateo particularly likes slanted pockets, which make it easy to slip your hands inside while on the go.

He also notices that clients sometimes allow themselves more freedom with their coats than with their work suits. A more pronounced texture, a different colour or a more generous collar can express their style while complementing an understated professional wardrobe.

How to care for your winter coat

A well-chosen coat is a piece you want to return to winter after winter, so its care deserves as much attention as its construction.

“It shouldn’t be something you think about replacing frequently.”

He emphasizes one simple habit: let a damp coat dry naturally before putting it away. Placing it straight into a crowded closet can trap moisture between garments. When it comes to cleaning, care should be tailored to the fabric you choose.

With quality fabric and proper care, a coat can last for years. That is also part of the value of made-to-measure: taking the time to choose a cut, fabric and details that suit you, creating a coat that will see you through much more than a single season.

Looking for a winter coat that fits your daily routine?

Book an appointment with your stylist to find the right cut, fabric and details for you.

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